![]() ![]() Hit OK on the filter, which will bring it back to Photoshop. Confused? Don’t be, it’ll all make sense in a moment. ![]() So, we’ll do a little Photoshop trickery for that, which we can do because this image started as a Smart Object. I do feel like the white itself is a bit too white… I really want that to be dirty as well. I chose one under the White category, and scaled it back a little big, making the border a bit smaller than the default. Old photos like what I’m trying to recreate here were often printed with white borders, so I’ll add that in now. The last thing I want to add here is Frames. So if you add any of these effects to your photo but find that it’s obscuring an important element, don’t forget about the Control Points! The effect had obscured the eyes up there, which I found to be an important part of the image. But more importantly, I added a control point to the top of the image where the double-view of her face was, dialing the effect back to zero there. For my photo, I chose one from the Streaked category and dialed it back to –75% (by going negative, it inverts the dark/light areas). This is another great old / scratched / vintage addition. For this photo, I chose one from the Eroded category, and scaled it back to about 50% strength. But be sure to scale it back quite a bit before you move on. The strength starts at 100% which is a good way to preview just what the overlay is doing. A word of caution with this effect it’s really easy to overdo it. Next up, I’ll add some Dirt & Scratches to make this look like an old print found in an attic somewhere. I’ve twisted the double exposure with the Rotate Strength, lowered the exposure and moved around a bit. To add any effect, open the Cameras list on the left if it’s not already visible, and click the (+) next to any effect you want to add. This image already has a bit of a spooky, etherial look to it and I want to play off of that vibe. For this photo, I’ll start with the Double Exposure. In fact, every remaining filter will do that! I encourage you to explore all of them, of course. There are so many tools to chose from that will dramatically affect the overall look of the image. Now that a solid base image has been created, it’s time to get creative. Of course I may decide to revisit them later! Let’s start the creative Silver Halide Print See the screenshot below for how to enable that.į or this image, I’ll leave the vignetting and curves adjustments alone, at least for now. To see this clearly, be sure to enable the mask view on the Control Point you’re working with while you move the Control Point around. This protects her eye, which would otherwise have been affected by the first control point. But then I also added a control point with no effect right on her eye. You’ll see that I’ve added a control point to the eyelashes and brightened it just a little. A quick Control Point added to those and brightened up a bit will fix that easily. The darkness of her eyelashes are still a bit too much though. It even brings her eyes up a bit - it’s a pretty great all-in-one adjustment! Not only does it amplify her blouse, but it also brings out details in her hair, setting it against the background quite nicely. On this photo, a little bit of Detail Extraction actually benefits it greatly. You’ll see that her eyes are a little too dark, so we’ll fix that next. ![]() For the photo I’m workin with, the #2 preset in the middle row works out quite well. You really just have to click through them and see what looks best for your particular photo. This adjustment doesn’t offer much guidance on what you’ll get with each option. Therefore, start here, and then make adjustments afterwards. So if you start by adjusting exposure or curves or vignetting, you may end up negating those with the film type. The Film Type adjustments have a lot of effects built into them already. It also gives us an easy way to “reset” the image without having to go back and manually adjust a bunch of settings to neutral. This allows us to add effects, instead of takin them away. Start by selecting that to load up a basic B&W conversion. Now, it’s time to continue to explore Nik Collection ‘s editing processes to make the most creative silver halide print! In part 1 of this article, we explored what a Silver Halide print is, how to prepare a file in Adobe Photoshop for Analog Efex Pro, and how to create a neutral B&W starting point in the filter. ![]()
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